I installed the dishwasher by myself. After some trials and tribulation, I must say I am pleased that I finally did it and it’s working just fine! However, the old dishwasher was attached with screws, etc., more or less to the inside top of the countertop and I’m not able to get there. The new one has a tendency to tip over when it’s loaded toward the front. It’s in an opening next to the sink, and there’s a one-inch gap between the d/w and the countertop. I did put a metal brace there for a time, but that started to loosen and it wasn’t very attractive because it was a two-inch metal bar that I placed on each side. Any suggestions on what types of strips I can use to fasten it more securely to the counter and also close up the gap on the top so that it looks more attractive?
—
Dishwashers, at time memorial, have changed little in depth or height. The height can be adjusted via the leveling legs/wheel/s as well as with the insertion of various thickness of wood under those accoutrement’s.
Or, you can add a section of face frame across the top and attach the mounting brackets to that.
Or, you can drill a hole on each side of the tub just in front of, and just below the top of the door gasket seat and screw it to the side face frame on either side.
Or, some DW installation kits provide brackets for side mounting.
—
OK, thank you. I don’t know where I can get matching type brackets or little slabs that will go on the top inside front of the machine. I hope I can get metal 4-inch dingees with holes in them, but I hate looking around forever for them. But I may have to. I don’t have a metal drill…meantime, I installed the d/w myself, happy to say, but cannot imagine taking it out again to see if there are legs on the bottom. I’m lost, a poor lost soul traveling on a dark sea sometimes I feel in times like these. :-) I really did mean the ‘thank-you’ though. Really. I mean it.
—
The more you talk about this, this appears to have been a used appliance. In which case, you were not given all of the parts. Find the model # on the door frame. from the mfg. web site order an installation kit and an owners manual. Remove the 4 screws that hold the 2 toe-kick panels on and the front leveling legs will be revealed. Turn the power off. Close the door. while laying on the floor, pushing in on the top of the closed door will lift the front of the machine off the floor allowing the front legs the be adjusted down. Pulling on the top of the closed door will tilt the machine toward you and off of the rear legs allowing them to be adjusted down. Since you do not have a drill, and if you do not have a pair of pliers or channel locks, call a professional.
—
Ok, thank you very much, I appreciate it. It is a used appliance, I was happy to buy it for $15 and it works. It’s fine. Except, of course, the gap on top. The previous machine was installed somehow (I noticed) from the top with brackets to the underside of the counter. I don’t know how they did it. But I cannot do the same. I believe I will avoid straining myself to lay on the floor, lift the door, etc. I am 64 with a bad back, bad knees and plus I am overweight. So there goes laying on the floor. I may have to call in a professional, that will probably cost me more than a brand new low end machine. I may try the attach it to the front idea, we’ll see if I can somehow locate strips to attach. If I have to, I’ll buy a drill.
—
On many dishwashers there are screw holes on the interior sides of them which you can put screws through to attach to the cabinets. In this circumstance you don’t have to attach it at the top. If you have no holes on the interior sides of the dishwasher you can use a 24″ wide x 3/4″ thick x 2 -3″ piece of wood trim, find a wood shop who can put in a couple of pocket screw holes into it and install it in the space above the dishwasher, stain or paint to match. You’ll have to remove the dishwasher from its hole to screw in the wood trim.