Shutoff valve hooked up to a toilet. The handle turns but the water will not turn off. The pressure does not seem to be very high given the spray into the tank is not very strong so I assume the valve will not open up all of the way either. As the knob turns, it feels bumpy (it almost feels like a wrench on a rounded nut). I used a screwdriver to open up the screw on the handle (is that the stem?). The screw loosens and tightens but again this does not affect the water pressure either way.

What is the problem and can I fix this without replacing the shutoff valve? If not, any tips on replacing that valve especially taking it off as I feel it’s going to be stuck or tough since the house is old. I’ve replaced the tank kit so I don’t think the water pressure has anything to do with the toilet itself.

Sorry. The threads in the valve body are stripped-guaranteed. You have to replace the valve.

You are right. The knob or handle has little to with the water pressure, however it has a lot to do with the flow. It sounds as though the knob itself may have deteriorated, The stem is “keyed” as is the knob and when the pot metal knob begins to dissolve and the stem is stuck from an internal accumulation of calcium, the knob gives because it is the weaker link. The knob and screw are available at most hdw. stores. Remove the screw and the knob and when you have the new knob, loosen the bonnet nut, the large nut just behind the knob, 1/2 turn, install the replacement knob and gently rotate each way until you have loosened the valve.

I know this is obvious but you’d be amazed how many people forget. Turn the water off before messing with the valve. You’ll have to probably turn of you main shut off valve unless you house is set up with supply line valves to the various sections of the house.

I found a multi-turn valve at HD and took the screw and knob off of that. I placed those on the old valve but it still did not turn. To open up the valve (to allow more water to enter) I went ahead and used a set of pliers. That did open it up a bit more which is what I originally needed. I’m going to try the new knob again to see if opening it up with the pliers loosened it enough so that the knob will now catch better. If that doesn’t not work I’ll probably try your bonnet nut trick.

Eventually I’m going to have to replace the entire valve. When that happens is there a trick to get it to align properly when screwing the valve onto the pipe stem (ie having the knob face sideways and not facing down). Also should pipe tape or putty be used when screwing the valve on?

It seems as though after opening up the valve and installing the new toilet kit that the toilet is now flushing. The one problem is that the water flushes/turns at a very high level (near the rim). The initial water level in the toilet seems normal. As it syphons the water level rises very high.

There is a knob on the toilet kit in the tank. The instructions suggest turning it one way to raise the water level and turning it the other way for lowering the water level. Is the water level they are speaking of in the
tank or in the toilet?

The washer on the shut-off has split from old age (kinda like my brain) and come apart; the pieces traveled to the toilet valve piping, causing a restriction and low water pressure; Cure is replacement; shut-off at street; if something breaks while disassembling, better while water off than while you are out of town and
flooding house?