Folks seem to be very interested in Bab type burners. Today, I played around with drip-type WVO stuff, the opposite, and much simpler. Basically, I have an old tugboat oil filter (big) and that was used for a tank (filter removed). A cat-food tin (same size as tuna-fish) filled with perlite was the bruner. Used some copper tubing I had laying around to run from the “tank” to the burner. Crimped the end of the copper tubing for drip control. Started the perlite burner with some lamp oil. Flamed up with no problem. Then, started the drip to it. Ran fine (a crimp is not a very precise control, but it worked). I like this idea, since the fuel was gravity fed. The “Mother Earth News” burner was the inspiration for this. Too bad the modern days version of MEN doesn’t pay homage to it’s past.

So, is a babington burner more efficient?

Also, I am a plumbing idiot, Questions: The copper tubing I have already had the “connectors” on. Basically, the tubing was flared, and it was a compression fitting. How do I flare copper tubing for more connectors? I’d imagine it’s a special tool. I’d like to add a valve, since the “crimp-valve” resulted in a big mess. Thanks for the help. I’ll get some pictures of the setup soon. Once I get all the copper tubing squared away, I’m going to mount the burner in a small wood-stove I have.

Standard flare fittings for copper tubing are 45 degrees. Imperial Eastman makes a flaring tool for this kind of fitting use. The fitting is called a nut and squeezes this flared tube over the male counterpart fitting when you tighten the two together with wrenches. There are also what are known as “compression fittings” in the world of tube connectors. These have a little brass ferule ( spelling ) and don’t require buying the flaring tool. Some people like this style of fitting. I think they are nominal. Both are available at car parts stores and hardware stores.

You just use two wrenches to squeeze the fitting together for a “tight leak proof” joint. After that it gets more exotic and better. Cajon and Swagelok are two more brands. And then there is JIC ( 37 degree flare ) which is used on hydraulic lines. JIC stands for Joint Industry Council and was set up to find a standard and agreed upon one around WW II and arrived at the 37 degree flare for hydraulic fittings, etc.

Forgot to mention that I think the Babington will out perform your drip stove, but give it a try anyhow. If it’s cheap and works, who cares.