My sister-in-law just bought an old house. The previous owners remodeled the kitchen and created a “laundry closet”. The problem is they gave zero clearance behind the washer and dryer. The dryer that came with the house was not drying well so we switched out to their old one which worked great at their last house. Their old dryer does not match the exhaust hole. They had this metal sliding adapter, but it did not really seal and blew lint everywhere. I went to the hardware store and bought dryer hose but because there is zero clearance behind the dryer there is not even enough room for the dryer hose to make an “S”. Basically the hole is smaller than it should be because the holes are 3 inches offset. The old dryer doesn’t heat any better than the one that came with the house. I plan to go back this week with a hole saw and move the hole because I think it is a fire hazard as well.

My question is does anyone think it is the exhaust hole being too small from the offset pipes or could it be a voltage problem? Any thing else I should check while I am at it?

The first thing I would check is the exhaust pipe from the wall to the outside. If this is plugged, the dryer will not dry because the air will not be moved outside. A couple of years ago we replaced our dryer only to find out that the pipe had a lint build up in it and would not allow for a good air flow.

The vent MUST be vented to the outside. If it is vented into the attic, the dryer will not aork well, the house will get damp when using the dryer, and you will have a mold problem. Mold can destroy the wood in the house.

I had this problem and found out it was just a buildup of lint. I took a vacuum hose and vacuumed as much as I could out of the dryer vent in the dryer itself, then took my leaf blower and blew down through it. It worked great. Do it when you have not tried to dry something for a while so it will be as dry as possible.

I am also having trouble with mine. THere doesn’t seem to be a build up of lint, I have checked that. The dryer is running, but not heating. I have checked the connections & they are testing positive. I don’t know what to do next.

If there is no lint buildup in the line, check the dryer itself: remove the flex or hard duct and see if there is a good bit of airflow coming out of the dryer. no airflow, no heat. good airflow but no heat – you may have a burnt element and may want to call a repair person. heat but no air (very rare!), bad exhaust fan motor. there are also heat sensors that may have malfunctioned that may be located in the exhaust line in the dryer which can be tricky to find if you have never seen one.

One thing about the vent pipe is that , if it has a long horizontal run, such as under the house, it may have a sag which would allow condensation to collect and block the air flow. If you do have a long length as such, run rigid pipe and slant it towards the outside just like a drain pipe. As the air cools within the pipe, it “drops moisture”. Never use flexible pipe for over 10 feet horizontally.

Good point! remember, when running hard pipe for dryer ducting, do not use screws in the joints: the screws will catch the lint as it passes thru and cause more problems. use a good quality metallized tape that is heat resistant. it will seal the joints and prevent the moisture from getting back into the house. never use plastic /pvc pipe to vent a dryer. the static electricity created by the warm moist air moving thru the plastic can create a spark and ignite the lint!

Ours didn’t have a sag but the repairman said as the laundry room was located in the middle of the house the run was too long without a “booster”. It was allowing the lint to build up along the way (like a blocked artery :) and we were lucky it hadn’t already burned out the heating element. He gave us the option of installing a booster motor; buying a new dryer that had enough force to make the long run or simply undoing a connection and letting the lint blow directly down under the house. Our dryer was 13 years old but still worked good so we chose the last one and for the cost of a service call it’s worked fine for the last 4 years. The entire run was sealed when we bought the house but there was a lot of lint under the house and that answered the question, they had left it open also but put the connection back together to sell the house. I think there is something in the code about that.